CHEMICAL SKIN PEELS
There are many chemicals that
can be safely applied to the skin to freshen and brighten the complexion and contrary to popular belief NOT ALL SKIN PEELS
INDUCE PEELING! But act on the skins cells on a biological level to repair damage.
For some peels, chemical peeling is
exactly what it says - peeling of the skin using a chemical. The outer layers are removed to freshen the skin, remove
sunspots & rough scaly patches & freckles, irregular pigmentation & fine wrinkles. There is some evidence
that it may reduce the risk of skin cancer. It is safest & most effective on the face. Hands can be peeled
but the risk of scarring is higher & the results less predictable. Cleopatra & the ancient Romans used various
food acids to peel their skin. In the early 1900s European & American women underwent "non-medical" peels
in salons with secret formulae which were probably mild acids. In the early 1950s the phenol peel was developed.
This was a fierce deep peel that could remove years of wrinkles but also gave peeling a reputation for complications including
pigmentation and scarring. However, when done under controlled conditions by an experienced practitioner peeling is
safe and effective.
Trichloroacetic acid is more gentle & become popular again because it rejuvenates the skin without
the risk of serious side effects. Other agents used include combination peels and pyruvic acid. Fine wrinkles
can be reduced with chemical peeling but deeper lines will remain (they may be improved by other methods). Most brown
marks, freckles & pigmentation can be removed or lessened, especially age & liver spots (lenigines). However,
pigment changes can be caused by a peel in people prone to this complication due to their skin type. Those known to
develop brown discolouration after injury such as a mild burn should have a "patch test" before undergoing a full
face chemical peel. Scaly patches and rough skin (keratoses) can be removed but very thick keratoses may need additional
treatment for complete removal. Skin that is thin & fragile such as sun-damaged skin & bald scalp skin
can be significantly rejuvenated.
Scarring can occur with strong acids but it is unusual with weaker ones. The most common causes
of scarring are infection & pulling off the skin before it is ready to peel both which are avoidable. Chemical peeling
is not a substitute for a facelift, it doesn't tighten sagging skin, stimulate collagen production or remove broken capillaries.
Chemical peeling is not appropriate for people who continue to have excessive sun exposure. Cold sores can be activated
in those who are prone to this condition but may be prevented with anti-viral medication. Increased pigmentation may
occur but resolves with time & can usually be prevented by diligent use of a sunscreen for 3 months after the peel.
What can I expect?
The skin may have been prepared with Vitamin A, Alpha Hydroxy Acid or other preparations usually for
2 weeks prior to the peel being applied. The skin is thoroughly cleansed with acetone or other cleanser. The peel
is then painted onto the face & monitored. A cold pack, or cooling fan may help if burning or stinging is experienced.
Depending on the type of peel used the skin will go pink or swollen over the next 24-hrs. Once
the initial burning has worn off it feels tight but isn’t painful. Over the next few days the skin dries & may look
slightly discoloured. Although water will do no harm, soap should be avoided.
The skin will begin to flake 3-7 days later & must be left to come off at its own pace.
Once the skin has healed, make-up may be applied over the new skin. Sometimes a secondary peel occurs during the second
week in the form of dry, scaling skin. Sunscreen SPF 30 is mandatory for at least 3 months & moisturisers are also
helpful. Chemical peeling can be repeated to achieve the desired result between 2-4 weeks. It can be repeated at any time
therefter in
the future & will not harm the skin.
The habitual use of sunscreen will prevent further sun damage & maintain the improved skin quality.
The use of vitamin creams, AHA creams or enzyme creams can also help improve the texture & reverse some of the effects
caused by years of sun exposure.
Before & after pictures......
