CHEMICAL SKIN PEELS
There are many many chemicals
that can be safely applied to the skin to freshen and brighten the complexion and contrary to popular belief NOT ALL SKIN
PEELS INDUCE PHYSICAL PEELING! But act on the skins cells on a biological level to repair damage from sun, smoking, aging,
acne and pigmentation.
For some peels, chemical peeling is exactly what it says - peeling of the skin using a chemical.
The outer layers are removed to freshen the skin, remove sunspots & rough scaly patches & freckles, irregular pigmentation
& fine wrinkles. There is some evidence that it may reduce the risk of skin cancer. It is safest & most
effective on the face. Cleopatra & the ancient Romans used various food acids to peel their skin and these form
the basis of many peeling agents today. In the early 1900s European & American women underwent "non-medical"
peels in salons with secret formulae which were probably mild acids. In the early 1950s the phenol peel was developed.
This was a fierce deep peel that could remove years of wrinkles, as demonstrated on some popular anti-aging TV programmes,
but also gave peeling a reputation for complications including pigmentation and scarring. However, when done under controlled
conditions by an experienced practitioner peeling is safe and effective.
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is an effective peeling agent
popular as it is without the risk of serious side effects. Other agents used include Glycolic Acid (GA), Jessners, Mandelic
Acid, combination peels and pyruvic acid. Fine wrinkles can be reduced with chemical peeling but deeper lines will remain
(they may be improved by other methods). Most brown marks, freckles & pigmentation can be removed or lessened, especially
age & liver spots (lenigines). However, pigment changes can be caused by a peel in people prone to this complication
due to their skin type. Those known to develop brown discolouration after injury such as a mild burn should have a "patch
test" before undergoing a full face chemical peel. Scaly patches and rough skin (keratoses) can be removed but
very thick keratoses may need additional treatment for complete removal. Skin that is thin & fragile such as sun-damaged
skin & bald scalp skin can be significantly rejuvenated.
Scarring can occur with strong acids (Phenol), but
it is unusual with weaker ones. The most common causes of scarring are infection & pulling off the skin before it
is ready to peel both which are avoidable. Chemical peeling is not a substitute for a facelift, it doesn't tighten
sagging skin, stimulate collagen production or remove broken capillaries. Chemical peeling is not appropriate for people
who continue to have excessive sun exposure. Cold sores can be activated in those who are prone to this condition but
may be prevented with anti-viral medication. Increased pigmentation may occur but resolves with time & can usually
be prevented by diligent use of a sunscreen for 3 months after the peel.
What can I expect?
The skin may have been prepared with Vitamin A, Alpha Hydroxy Acid or other preparations usually for
2 weeks prior to the peel being applied. The skin is thoroughly cleansed with acetone or other cleanser. The peel
is then painted onto the face & monitored. A cold pack, or cooling fan may help if burning or stinging is experienced.
Depending on the type of peel used the skin may appear pink or tight over the next 24-hrs.
Once the initial tingling has worn off it feels tight but isn’t painful.
Depending
upon the type & strength of chemical, the skin may begin to flake 3-7 days later & must be left to come
off at its own pace. Once the skin has healed, make-up may be applied over the new skin. Sometimes a secondary
peel occurs during the second week in the form of dry, scaling skin. Sunscreen SPF 30 is mandatory for at least 3 months
& moisturisers are also helpful. Chemical peeling can be repeated to achieve the desired result between 2-4 weeks. It can be repeated at any time
therefter in
the future & will not harm the skin. These treatments require no time off work, no downtime and normal activities can
be resumed immediately. This is probably why they are commonly referred to as "lunch-time peels" and are popular
treatments for skin rejuvenation today.
The habitual use of sunscreen will prevent further sun damage & maintain the improved skin quality.
The use of vitamin creams, AHA creams or enzyme creams can also help improve the texture & reverse some of the effects
caused by years of sun exposure.
Before & after pictures......
